I recently mounted a pair of Dynafit Speed Superlite bindings (original version prior to 2015-2016 model year; not V2.0), and wanted to share my notes from the process, as I found very few resources online for do-it-yourself mounting at home. Feel free to contact me with additional suggestions.
Mounting these tech race bindings requires much greater precision than mounting most ski bindings: the mounting holes are deeply countersunk into the binding, giving very little room for error.
Also, the heel piece awkwardly covers all of the heel screws, making it impossible to get a sight on how your pilot holes are located. Unfortunately, there’s no way to fully deactivate the spring which twists the heel piece back to its neutral position; get ready to fight this throughout the mounting process. Note: Do not try to take off the top of the heel unit in the hope of being able to release this spring- there is no access to the spring mechanism, and these self-tapping screws can easily strip their plastic housing.
I followed the Wildsnow do-it-yourself tech binding mounting instructions with these modifications. Read them through
Before working on the bindings:
- Back out the DIN adjustment screw on the back of the heel piece completely. This makes it easier to twist the top of the heel unit, allowing you to access the mounting screw holes.
- Be sure you have a dedicated T25 Torx screwdriver. A bit driver will have a difficult time getting around the top part of the heel piece.
- The Speed Superlite binding is specified at a heel gap of 5.5mm (according to skimo.co). Because the binding doesn’t have any fore/aft adjustment, try to get this close. Wildsnow recommends stacking together 3 well-worn US nickels to check the gap.
- Toe piece: Same 30x39mm hole pattern as used on most Dynafit toe pieces (see a list at skimo.co); you can use the Wildsnow template for this.
- Heel piece measurements: The two front holes are each 11.5mm from the ski centerline (total spacing 23mm). The rear hole center is 37mm aft of this line. I’ll try to put together a paper template.
- Use the Wildsnow instructions to get the proper fore/aft positioning for the toe piece.
- To locate the heel piece, set up the heel gap, then mark where the back of the heelpiece crosses the ski center line. The rear hole of the heel centerpiece should be 5.5mm ahead of this, and the two other holes will be 37mm further forwards.
- Drilling the mounting holes needs more precision than typical bindings, and a few mm of wobble as you get a drill bit started can make life difficult, and the soft wood of light race skis makes this even harder. Drilling a series of pilot holes should make this easier to control. Once you’ve double-checked where the centers of the holes go, dimple the topsheet with a nail, then create a bigger pocket with a centerpunch or wide nail, then use a very thin drill bit to drill a pilot hole, then drill a larger pilot hole, then finally use a ski drill bit or 3.6mm drill bit with a stopper at 9mm.
- As you mount the heel unit, twist the top back and forth to give access to each of the holes in turn. Slowly tighten each of the heel screws, alternating the direction in which you’re twisting the heel unit. Or if you’ve discovered your holes were slightly out of line, be consistent about twisting the heel unit in the direction that you need to correct in.
Good luck, and happy trails!